Sunday, 29 June 2008

midsummer's eve

Midsummer in Sweden is a big deal. It's the holiday of the year. Celebrations usually involve friends, family and lots and lots of spirits.

There can be nothing more Swedish than raising a May Pole, dancing around it singing about little frogs, then settling in for a hearty lunch of pickled herring, new season potatoes, and strawberry cake. Lunch should be punctuated with frequent drinking and singing.

Luckily for me, I was able to get involved thanks to a work mate, Anders, hosting some of us for midsummer's eve. I had company as well, Carmen joined me in Göteborg from London. Also from work there was a couple of Spaniards, a couple of Chinese, and a few more Swedes just to make sure it was a Swedish enough day!

Did I mention the May Pole?

Raising the maypole: it really is midsummer's eve in SwedenWhat's it look like? Squint a bit and use only the slightest bit of imagination. Yup, that's right. It symbolises a giant cock being shoved into mother earth, hence kick starting another year of fertile ground, good crops, etc.

After the raising of the May Pole, kids and parents are encouraged to dance around the pole. One of the more popular songs is Små Grodorna, or Small Frog. Basically it goes something along the lines of: small frogs are funny to see, the have no ears, and no tail. And they go kvack ack ack, kvack ack ack.

That's a funny conversation to have over a few drinks: what do animals "say" in other languages. In Swedish, frogs say kvack, kvack, and definitely not ribbit! I forget some of the others now, but commonly ducks, dogs, pigs and birds say things other than quack, woof, oink and tweet in Spanish, Swedish and Chinese. Cats seem to be the only animal that is the same in all: meow.

It was hungry work standing in a park on a Friday afternoon, so soon enough we headed back to Anders' place for a traditional midsummer's eve lunch.

Note: when a Swede offers you "seal" don't jump to conclusions. They do not slaughter baby seals in celebration of midsummer... There's a nicer explanation, as we found out. The Swedish word for herring is sill... Actually the English speakers were fine, as the Swede's told us sill is herring, but the Spanish call herring, aringa, (which is actually an Italian word!). No wonder we were all a bit confused! But don't worry: if you are in Norway, and they offer you seal, then it's a good chance it actually is seal!

After a lunch and a few Aquavit's: O. P. Andersen, and Skåne, to name just two. We headed outside for a game of Kubb. This is an old Swedish game, where you take turns to throw sticks at each other... sort of...

Don't knock the King over until the end!The game is played informally in back yards and parks all over the country whenever the sun is out. The playing field is set up with six kubbs either side, and one king in the middle (pictured). There are six throwing sticks, and two opposting teams. The teams throws all six sticks in a turn to attempt to knock over the kubbs. Once one teams' kubbs are all knocked over, it's time to knock over the king. The king should not be knocked over until the very end, otherwise you lose instantly (kind of like the black ball in pool).

Carmen has a shotKubb was really enjoyable. Standing around in the sunshine, talking, and occasionally throwing sticks (and insults). All in all midsummer's eve was really enjoyable! Thanks to Anders for hosting us.

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